Mera Peak

The Mountain

At 6476m Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal.  Located at the head of the Hinku Valley at the eastern edge of the Khumbu region Mera Peak has three main summits – Mera South, Mera Central and Mera North and all three offer spectacular 360 degree views which include 5 of the worlds 14, 8000m mountains.  Mera Central was first climbed on 20 May 1953 by Col Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing.  Mera North, the highest summit of the three, was first climbed sometime between 29 October 1973 and 1975 although the details are not entirely clear.

The Route

Leaving Lukla the trek into Mera Peak initially takes us south to Paiya and Panggom before turning north and heading into the Hinku valley.  This gives plenty of time for acclimatisation before we reach the Mera La and prepare ourselves for the summit.  The return journey is more direct and takes us over the high pass of Zatwra La (4600m) before dropping back down to Lukla.

Monkey Mountaineering's Approach

Maximise Chances of Summitting Successfully, Minimise Environmental Impact...

At Monkey Mountaineering we recognise the difficulties involved in completing an ascent of Mera Peak, that's why we do everything we can to help you achieve your goal. To improve your chances of success our groups on this trek are never more than 8 people. We use local guides who are professional, fully qualified, experienced and have in-depth knowledge of the trek and mountain.

In keeping with our core values of sustainable adventure travel, we take steps to ensure our impact on the environment is kept to a minimum.  We always respect the environment we operate in and we plan all our trips with this in mind.

This is a 23-day itinerary with a couple of spare days programmed in to factor for the fragile nature of domestic air services in Nepal which are often impacted by the weather as well as other problems related to developing countries.  We don’t see the need for you to add extra days to the end of your trip but can happily arrange this for you if you would like.  Please get in touch if you would like to discuss this further by email: info@monkeymountaineering.com or phone: 01765 773015

Day 1:  Arrive in Kathmandu.  Once you have collected your luggage and made your way out of the airport terminal building you will be met by one of our local representatives and transferred to your hotel in the busy Kathmandu district of Thamel.

Day 2:  Kathmandu Sightseeing Tour.  After breakfast you will be collected for your sightseeing tour.  Highlights include:

• Durbar Square – This ancient location has been the home to Kings throughout different dynasties and is also the home to some of the finest Hindu and Buddhist architecture in the region.
• Swayambhunath – Set on a hilltop to the west of Kathmandu, Swayambhunath is one of the oldest religious sites in Nepal.  The site itself is a collection of small stupas and a pagoda temple built over different periods by a succession of kings and noblemen.  The main structure of is made of a solid hemisphere of brick and clay supporting a conical spire of copper gilt.  Painted on the four sides on the base of the spire are the “All Seeing Eyes” of Lord Buddha.  Swayambhunath is also known as the Monkey Temple.
• Bouddhanth - This colossal and ancient Stupa is one of Nepal’s most unique monuments and is said to be the world biggest Stupa.  Baudhanath Stupa is said to hold the remains of Kasyapa - the Buddha of the previous time.  One hundred meters in diameter this Stupa is 36 meters high.  Its pinnacle represents the stages of enlightenment, symbol of royalty, compassion, knowing and nirvana.
• Pashupatinath – With its two-tiered golden roof and silver doors this temple is famous for its superb Newari architecture.  Situated near the banks of sacred Bagmati River only Hindus are permitted to enter, however visitors can clearly see the temple from the eastern bank of the river.

After the sightseeing tour you can relax before we take you to a traditional restaurant for a welcome dinner and live Nepali cultural show.

Day 3:  Fly to Lukla (2840m) and trek to Puyan (2800m).  After breakfast in your hotel you will be transferred to Kathmandu’s Domestic Air Terminal for a morning flight to Lukla[1].  On arrival you will meet your Sirdar and the rest of the crew and then set off on the trek to Puyan where you will stay overnight in a Tea House.

Day 4:  Puyan to Pangkongma (2846m).  After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridgeline overlooking the Khare Khola.  Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma (2,846m) where we will stay overnight in a Tea House.

Day 5:  Pangkongma to Nashing Dingma (2600m).  With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La and gain good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh.  We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley.  This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola.  A steep climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma (2,600m) where we will stay overnight in a Tea House.

Day 6:  Nashing Dingma to Chalem Kharka (3600m).  Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La.  It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass.  Overnight in Tea house at Chalem Kharka.

Day 7:  Chalem Kharka to Chunbu Kharka (4200m).  Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged.  Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east.  We continue climbing to Panch Pokari and then on to Chunbu Kharka where we overnight in a Tea House.

Day 8:  Chunbu Kharka to Thaksingdingma (3600m).  One of the longest walking days, mostly downhill.  We will traverse several flats and spurs until we gain our first view of Mera Peak.  From here we will drop down into the isolated Hinku Valley.  Aside from mountaineers, the Hinku Valley is sparsely populated and very pristine.  We will ascend a steep section of trail until we enter the forest, where we will stop for lunch.  Eventually we will drop down into the humid, bamboo forests, before turning north up along the west side of the Hinku River towards Mera Peak, lowly ascending to Thaksingdingma where we will overnight in a Tea House.

Day 9:  Thaksingdingma to Thangnak (4350m).  Today we will have amazing mountain views as we continue north up the Hinku Valley.  The trail gently climbs along the west bank of the Hinku River.  Spectacular mountains, such as Kusum Kanguru to the west and Mera Peak to the east, will be in view throughout the morning.  We will make our way up onto the meadows on the western side of the Hinku Valley, climbing above the tree line and stopping for lunch.  Throughout the afternoon, we will traverse meadows and hill slopes, dotted with grazing yaks, until we reach the settlement of Tangnak where we will overnight in a Tea House.

Day 10:  Acclimatisation/Rest Day at Thangnak (4350m).  An important day as we help our bodies become accustomed to operating at high altitudes.  After breakfast we will take a gentle walk up to an altitude of around 5000m before returning to Thangnak for lunch.  Overnight in Tea House.

Day 11:  Thangnak to Khare (5100m).  Today we will climb above 5000m (16,400ft) for the first time.  Our hike up to Khare is short, but we will take it slowly, with frequent stops to soak up the incredible surroundings.  The trail heads eastward out of Thangnak, along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier.  We will pause to climb up the moraine for a view of the pristine Sabai Tso glacial lake.  A drop in lake level, caused by a recent rupture of the natural dam that held the lake, is clearly visible.  We will arrive at Khare in the early afternoon and have lunch.  Overnight will be spent in a Tea House.

Day 12:  Acclimatisation/Rest Day at Khare (5100m).  Our second acclimatisation day will be spent around Khare where we will take a short morning walk to a nearby viewpoint before returning to the Tea House for lunch.

Day 13:  Khare to Mera Peak Base Camp (5300m).  Today we will travel a short distance, slowly ascending up onto the Mera glacier.  The climb is initially steep, flattening out as we reach the crest of the glacier.  We will traverse a long flat on top of the glacier as we make our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft).  From here, the views are stunning.  Crevasse fields gently stretch out in front of the pass and we are literally enclosed by a ring of jagged peaks and blue-green glaciers.  The remaining route up to the summit of Mera Peak is clearly visible.  We will have lunch at Mera La before descending to Mera Peak Base Camp and spending the afternoon relaxing and staying warm.  Overnight Camp.

Day 14:  Acclimatisation and Skills Refresher – Mera Peak Base Camp (5300m).  A chance to practice and refresh the skills we will need when we make our final ascent to the summit of Mera Peak and another opportunity to rest and acclimatise.

Day 15:  Mera Peak Base Camp to High Camp (5800m).  After breakfast we tackle the short, steep climb up to High Camp, taking it steady we aim to arrive for lunch and an afternoon of relaxation and preparation for our summit bid.  At 5,800 m (19,025ft), High Camp is nestled behind a large rock outcrop and has been called one of the most glorious viewpoints in Nepal – from here, to the east you can see Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse and looking north Everest peers over the massive unclimbed South Face of Lhotse and Nuptse.

Day 16:  Summit Mera Peak (6476m).  Departing High Camp before dawn we will make our way up the glacier to the highest summit of Mera, the northern summit.  The route is straight forward and normally takes around 6-7 hours.  The reward is one of the world’s most spectacular mountain views, including Everest and Lhotse to the north, Cho Oyu to the northwest, and Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east.  After enjoying the views and drinking it all in we will make our way back down to the Mera La for lunch and then on to Khare and an overnight stay in a Tea House.

Day 17:  Spare Day.  We keep a day in reserve in case of poor weather or other unforeseen circumstances.  This is our final opportunity to achieve the summit if we haven’t already done so.

Day 18 - 20:  Trek from Khare to Lukla via the Zatrwa La.  The journey back to Lukla takes three days and covers some spectacular scenery including the Zatrwa La, a 4600m high pass.  Initially the route is a reverse of the way we came, through juniper meadows and back down to the river before turning right, passing through birch and rhododendron forests and climbing up towards the Zatrwa La which reveals breath-taking views.  The last day of the trek is fairly long and covers some steep descents but its definitely worth it with the temptation of a cold beer in Lukla spurring you on!

Day 21:  Return Flight to Kathmandu.  After breakfast we head to the small airstrip in Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu.  Overnight in Thamel Eco Lodge Hotel.

Day 22:  Free Day in Kathmandu.  A day to catch your breath, buy souvenieers and take in the sights and sounds of Kathmandu before packing to head home.  Overnight in Thamel Eco Lodge Hotel.

Day 23:  Transfer to Kathmandu International Airport.  A private transfer to the airport in time for your international flight.

[1] Flights to and from Lukla are very dependent on weather and often delayed or cancelled.  We ask for your patience through what may appear to be a chaotic system when compared to airports in developed nations.  There is a system, and we have a contingency which involves flying from a different airfield if it looks like our flight will be cancelled.  Your Guide will endeavour to keep you informed.

Included in the price of this trip:

• Private arrival and departure transfers to and from the airport in Kathmandu.
• Pre Climb (2 nights) and Post Climb (2 nights) accommodation in the bustling district of Thamel, Kathmandu in the Thamel Eco Resort (http://www.thamelecoresort.com/) in shared rooms (twin) on Bed & Breakfast basis (single rooms available for a supplement).
• Traditional Nepalese welcome dinner.
• Kathmandu sightseeing tour (including Guide, private transport and all entrance fees).
• Transfer to/from domestic air terminal.
• Internal return flights to Lukla.
• All National Park and other entry fees and all permits.
• Fully supported camping trek with tents and camping equipment.
• All meals plus tea/coffee whilst trekking (see frequently asked questions for more details).
• 3lts of boiled water for drinking per day.
• Professional guiding and support team including Climbing Sherpa support.
• Portage of 15kg per client.
• All wages, clothing and insurances for Guide/s and porters.
• Access to satellite phone (all calls must be paid for).
• High quality Monkey Mountaineering branded duffel bag for use on trek (you will receive this on arrival in Kathmandu).

The following are not Included:

• International Flights from/to UK.
• Personal clothing and equipment (see our clothing and equipment section for guidance about what to bring).
• Additional accommodation in Kathmandu at the start or end of your trek should you choose to arrive early of stay longer.
• Meals whilst staying in Kathmandu (hotel is Bed & Breakfast basis).
• Drinks whilst in Kathmandu or trekking (water, soft drinks, tea/coffee, alcoholic beverages etc – see frequently asked questions).
• Expenses of a personal nature such as telephone calls, laundry etc.
• Tips for Guides, Drivers and Porters.
• Personal travel insurance (to cover you for cancellation, accident, health, emergency evacuation and loss, theft of or damage to baggage and personal effects etc.)  You must ensure you have adequate cover for emergency medical treatment and rescue costs (including helicopter rescue costs) whilst climbing up to 6476m.
• Additional expenses incurred should there be a need to amend your itinerary or curtail your trek/climb early for whatever reason and transfer you back to Kathmandu or a medical facility or hotel (it is essential that you have personal travel insurance that includes cover for trekking/climbing Mera Peak).

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal and at 6476m it’s a big mountain which should not be underestimated.  In the Himalaya, the weather above 5000m can be unpredictable and can change from benign to hostile very quickly with strong winds appearing from nowhere.  Temperatures are regularly well below freezing at night but often as warm as 25 degrees C during the day.  Lower down on the trail afternoon rainstorms are not uncommon and can be extremely heavy at times, this will fall as snow at higher altitudes.  With this in mind it is important that we set out wearing the right clothing and carrying the right equipment.  Listed below are all the items of clothing and equipment that you will need to protect yourself from the elements whilst on our Mera Peak trip.  We have annotated some items as essential so please make sure you read this section and if you are unsure about anything, please give us a call or email us at info@monkeymountaineering.com 

Essential Clothing (to be worn/carried – starting at the feet and working up)

• Walking boots.  For the trek to Base Camp and wearing around camp - A good pair of lightweight 3 or 4 season GoreTex lined walking boots which provide ankle support and are well broken-in should do the trick.
• Trainers.  For wearing in the evening in Tea Houses or around camp.
• High Altitude Expedition Boots.  A good quality double boot with an insulating gaiter is preferable.  It is important that these boots are as warm as possible.  We recommend boot such as La Sportiva G2 SMs, Scarpa Phantom 6000s, La Sportiva Spantiks or 8,000m boots.  These can be hired from http://www.expeditionkithire.co.uk/index.html.  Make sure there is sufficient room in these boots for a good thick sock and a liner sock – tight boots can lead to frostbite so please make sure whatever boots you choose have adequate space.
• Hiking socks. We recommend a good pair of proper hiking/trekking socks for the walk into Base Camp.  Ideally you should have a pair for each day but bear in mind you need to carry everything – a minimum of three pairs.
• High Altitude Socks.  Thick socks for wearing above the Mera La in your expedition boots.  Take 2 pairs and keep one pair in reserve for summit day.  Socks such as Thorlo extreme cold or Smartwool mountaineering extra heavy crew socks are great.
• Liner Socks.  1 or 2 pairs for wearing in your expedition boots and providing an extra layer of warmth on summit day.
• Shorts.  These are optional for use at lower altitudes on the trek into Base Camp.
• Lightweight Walking Trousers.  To wear on a daily basis during the trek to Base Camp if not wearing shorts – 2 pairs.  Jeans or tracksuit bottoms are not suitable.
• Thermal Long Johns.  Minimum of one pair, for wear at high altitude and whilst sleeping.
• Soft Shell Trousers.  For wearing above the Mera La and on summit day.  These should be insulated/fleece lined for winter use and windproof.
• Waterproof Trousers.  Hard shell waterproof trousers.  Ideally, they should be windproof and breathable (Gore Tex or equivalent) and with full or ¾ length side zips.
• Long-Sleeved Thermal Top.  Essential base layer.  Take at least 2 of these for wearing whilst at high altitude and whilst sleeping.
• Tee-shirt.  For wearing on a daily basis whilst trekking.  Should be a technical fabric – avoid cotton as it is slow to dry.  You will need 2 or 3 of these.
• Mid-Layer.  Lightweight microfleece or something similar is ideal as a mid-layer.  You should bring two mid-layer tops – tops with zips allow ventilation and are often better than round neck tops.
• Gilet.  This is an optional item but a good choice as an extra layer to keep your core warm.  Any gilet you choose should be low volume (not bulky) down, primaloft or fleece.
• Soft-Shell Jacket.  Another optional layer – if you choose to bring a soft-shell jacket then make sure it is insulated and, importantly, windproof (not all soft-shell jackets are windproof).
• Insulated Jacket.  A lightweight down or primaloft jacket which can be worn at lower altitudes and provides the flexibility of an additional layer higher up.
• Expedition Weight Down Jacket.  For wearing at high altitude and on summit day.  Ideally it should be at least 700+ fill down (or equivalent) and baffle construction with a hood – make sure it is rated down to at least -25 degrees C, the warmer the better!
• Waterproof Jacket.  Thin, lightweight Hard-Shell jacket that is both waterproof and windproof and large enough to be worn as an outer layer over all the other clothing on summit day.  Ideally this will be waterproof and breathable (GoreTex or equivalent) and it will have a hood – non-breathable jackets are not suitable.
• Sun Hat.
• Wooly hat.  Ideally one that will also cover your ears – one as a minimum but you might want to consider a spare as well.
• Buff.  Essential for helping to keep the sun off your neck at lower altitudes, protecting from dust and wind and as neck/face protection higher up.
• Face Mask.  Not essential but worth considering – Buff can be used instead.
• Liner Gloves.  Thin silk/wool/polypropylene liner gloves – 2 pairs.
• Gloves.  A lightweight pair of gloves for wearing lower down during the trekking phase.
• Thick Gloves.  These should fit over your liner gloves and be fleece lined with a durable windproof/waterproof outer shell.  Ideally, they will have wrist straps.
• Mittens.  Expedition standard modular mittens with a warm fleece lined inner (or down) and a durable windproof/waterproof outer shell.  Ideally your mittens will also have wrist straps and be large enough for you to also wear a pair of liner gloves inside.
• Underwear.  Ideally these will be quick drying and moisture wicking.  Take 3 pairs as a minimum.
• Sports Bra.  Ladies only, take 2.  Should be a technical fabric, avoid cotton.

Essential Equipment

• Large Duffle Bag.  120lt to transport all your equipment from the UK and to transport your kit to Base Camp, must be durable for use on pack animals and carrying by porters.  Suitcases and wheeled bags are not suitable.
• Daysack.  The pack you will carry on a daily basis.  As a guide it should have a capacity of around 40lt.
• Dry Bags.  A selection of rucksack liners and dry bags as required to keep your clothing, sleeping bag and equipment dry and organised.  A waterproof rucksack cover is also useful but not instead of waterproof liners.
• Small Bag.  For storing clothing not required for the trekking and climbing phase and leaving in the hotel in Kathmandu.
• Small Padlocks.  As required to provide security for your bags (in the hotel and on the trail).
• Sleeping Bag.  This should have a comfort rating of at least -25 (4 or 5 seasons).  It is important to get a good night’s sleep and so you need to ensure your sleeping bag will keep you warm.
• Sleeping Bag Liner.  Optional but highly recommended silk liner for extra warmth and to help keep your sleeping bag clean.
• Sleeping Matt.  Good ground insulation is crucial as is a comfy surface to sleep on that softens the hardness of the ground.  A full length inflatable sleeping mat is recommended.
• Head torch.  With spare batteries or the means to recharge.
• Personal First Aid Kit.  This should include sun cream (SPF 30 or higher), lip balm (which should also offer sun protection), blister plasters (compeed), plasters, painkillers and any prescription medicines, insect repellent etc.  Pack this in your daysack.
• Water Bladder/Camelbak.  You should aim to carry at least 2 litres for daily consumption and whilst trekking a Camelbak type system is ideal.
• Water Bottle.  Higher on the mountain your Camelbak may freeze and so it is a good idea to have a 1 litre Nalgene type bottle.
• Water Purification System.  Whilst we will be providing you with boiled water for drinking it’s a good idea to carry some sort of purification system such as ‘water purification tablets’, filtration system or UV light purification system (recommended).
• Toiletries and Travel Towel.  Include wet wipes, hand sanitizer and toilet tissues as well as nappy sacks or dog poo bags (to bag your toilet paper and keep rubbish under control).  Keep it small and light for on the trek – essentials are tooth brush and toothpaste as well as travel soap/shampoo.
• Pee Bottle.  A 1lt Nalgene bottle works well so long as it is clearly marked as a ‘pee bottle’.  This saves time and energy by removing the need to leave your tent in the middle of the night.  Females may wish to purchase a ‘Shewee’ or similar.
• Toilet Tissues.  Toilet paper will be provided but it is always a good idea to carry some of your own – you never know when you might need it!
• Climbing Helmet.
• Climbing Harness.  A lightweight alpine type climbing harness will work best. Ensure it is large enough to go on over all your clothing.
• Crampons.  12-point mountaineering crampons with anti-balling plates.  Ideally these will have a rigid toe and heal bale as opposed to flexible bindings and will be a good fit to your expedition boots.
• Ice Axe.  This should be a walking axe between 55 and 65 cm long.
• Jumar.  Can be left-handed or right-handed, the choice is yours – for use on any fixed line we might need to use.
• HMS Karabiners.  These should be locking Karabiners – you will need a minimum of 2.
• Sling.  Two x 60cm slings.
• Snow Goggles.  For wearing whilst on the glacier and on summit day if its windy/snowy.
• Sunglasses.  For general use whilst trekking and for wearing whilst on the glacier – for wearing on the glacier sunglasses need to be Category 4 and be close fitting or have side protection.

Optional Equipment

• Walking poles.  Not essential but can be extremely useful and help with stability and reducing the pressure on your knees when descending.
• Camera.  Make sure you have spare batteries or the means to re-charge.
• Mobile Phone.  Mobile phone reception is very limited on this trip (there is a signal in Lukla and WiFi is available here), but you may want to use your phone as a camera.  Our Team will carry a satellite phone in case of emergencies.
• Ear Plugs.  To help with sleeping.
• Small Stainless-Steel Flask.
• Penknife.
• Sewing Kit.
• Snacks.  The food on the trek and mountain is very good and there is plenty of it.  You will be able to buy snacks lower down on the trek but might want to have some of your favourites as a treat after long tough days.  Please don’t bring energy gels or protein bar type supplements as they are not suitable for this type of activity.
• Hand/Feet Warmers.  Not essential but extremely useful on summit day if the weather is very cold and/or windy.  Taped on top of clothing (at the wrist/forearm or boot top) they can make a real difference.

Other Clothing & Equipment

• Travel clothing.  Clothing that you will not wear whilst on the mountain.  This can be packed in a small bag to be stored in the hotel in Kathmandu until your return.

Paperwork

• Booking confirmation.
• Passport.  Your passport should have at least 6 months validity beyond your last day of travel in Nepal.  It is worth making a photocopy of your passport and bringing this with you too just in case.
• Visa.  UK Citizens require a Visa for entry to Nepal.  Visas can be obtained from the Nepalese Embassy in London or on arrival at Kathmandu International Airport.  More information can be found at https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/nepal/entry-requirements
• Passport Photos.  Please bring 4 x Passport Photos which will be required for climbing and trekking permits.
• Immunization Papers (if required, see https://travelhealthpro.org.uk/country/159/nepal for more information).
• Insurance Documents.  It is crucial that you have comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency medical treatment and rescue from up to 6500m whilst trekking in the Nepalese Himalaya.  You must ensure you take your insurance documents with you and that the 24-hour emergency contact number for your insurance is clearly identifiable.