At 7126m Himlung Himal is in a remote corner of Nepal, close to the Tibetan border, northeast of the Annapurna’s. It was first climbed in 1992 by a Japanese team with the first British ascent, part of a Swiss team coming much later. Technically, the climbing is straight forward however, to be successful, you will require a high level of fitness.
We allow seven days for the journey from Kathmandu to Base Camp. This ensures plenty of time for acclimatisation. The area itself has only been open to foreigners since the early ‘90s and gets much less footfall from trekkers than the more popular parts of Nepal. The trek into base camp itself passes through a deep gorge packed with waterfalls with the trail passing through the picturesque villages of Jagat, Dharapani, Koto, Meta, Kyang and Phu. On the way you will see stupas, shrines, mani walls and sensational views of the Annapurna’s.
At roughly 4800m on the edge of the Pangir Glacier, Base Camp has awesome views across the Annapurna’s. The route from Base Camp crosses the glacier and climbs up a rocky gully to a ridge and Camp 1 at around 5500m near a small lake. We then head across rocky ground to gain a rib above a badly crevassed section of glacier before dropping back down to and ascending the glacier to Camp 2 (6250m) on a level plateau. Moving above Camp 2 towards the summit we initially climb up the western side of the glacier before joining a rib to reach the summit face which is then climbed directly to the summit.
Himlung Himal can be climbed in both spring and autumn. The weather in the mountains can never be guaranteed but in general terms:
Climbing Himlung Himal in the spring will be quieter than in the more popular autumn season so if you are hoping to have the summit to yourselves then spring is the best time to go!
This trip is aimed at experienced mountaineers looking to climb this 7000m peak with the minimum of assistance or who are looking to use this as a stepping stone to the 8000m peaks. Whilst not technically difficult it is physically demanding with long days. Ideally you will have experience of Alpine AD- routes, Scottish grade ll winter routes and some glacial skills as well as altitude experience from some 6000m peaks. Please get in touch to discuss if you are unsure.
Board your international flight from the UK (International Flights are not included in the price).
Once you have collected your luggage and made your way out of the airport terminal building you will be met by one of our local representatives and transferred to your hotel in the busy Kathmandu district of Thamel.
Morning briefing to complete the official permit procedures after which the rest of the day is free to enjoy the ‘bombardment of the senses’ that is Kathmandu. Sightseeing tours can be arranged to visit sights such as the temples of Bodnath, Swayambhunath (The Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath and Durbar Square. Alternatively, you could simply wander around the huge array of shops, markets, cafes, bars and restaurants in Thamel.
After an early breakfast we drive to the road head at Besisahar (about 5hrs – also known as Lamjung) stopping for lunch on route. From Besisahar we transfer into Jeeps for a 4hr drive following and criss-crossing the Marsyandi river to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area. This journey takes us from tropical forests up through mountain forests, enjoying ever improving views as we pass through numerous interesting villages seeing the culture change as we ascend into the Tibetan Manang District. Overnight in Jagat (1300m).
Trekking Time: approx. 5hrs. Sometimes it is possible to drive to Koto but occasionally the road is blocked as a result of landslides therefore we have allowed for the additional trekking day.
Trekking Time: approx. 5hrs. On arrival, after a brew, we will take a short acclimatisation walk.
One of the most stunning and beautiful valleys in Nepal with almost zero tourists. Trekking Time: approx. 7hrs.
Followed by an acclimatisation walk to 4300m. Trekking Time: approx. 3hrs.
Followed by an acclimatisation walk to 4780m. Trekking Time: approx. 3hrs.
Base Camp at 4850m is on the south side of the Pangri Glacier. Trekking Time: approx. 4hrs
This is a valuable acclimatisation day spent exploring the alpine meadows and views around camp, packing kit for higher on the mountain and relaxing in this very pleasant spot. We normally hold a puja on this day to ask the mountain gods for safe passage.
We will use two camps:
From Base Camp to Koto or Dharapani.
Roughly 7hrs by Jeep to Besisahar and then transfer by road to Kathmandu (around 5hrs).
Relax, enjoy a well-earned beer and get souvenirs before your flight home.
A private transfer will take you to the international airport in time for your flight home.
| From | To | Price | Availability | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12/04/2025 | 13/05/2025 | £7395 | 8 Places Available | Enquire Now |
| 04/10/2025 | 04/11/2025 | £7395 | 7 Places Available | Enquire Now |
Boots
A good pair of light-weight GoreTex lined walking boots which provide ankle support and are well broken-in. Boots are essential - Please do not bring trail shoes.
Boots High Altitude
A good quality High Altitude double boot with an insulating gaiter is preferable. It is important that these boots are as warm as possible. We recommend boot such as La Sportiva G2 Evo or Scarpa Phantom 6000s or 8000s. These can be hired from http://www.expeditionkithire.co.uk/index.html. Make sure there is sufficient room in these boots for a good thick sock and a liner sock – tight boots can lead to frostbite so please make sure whatever boots you choose have adequate space.
Buff
Essential for helping to keep the sun off your neck at lower altitudes, protecting from dust and wind and as neck/face protection higher up.
Climbing Harness - Lightweight
A lightweight alpine type climbing harness will work best. Ensure it is large enough to go on over all your clothing.
Climbing Helmet
You only have one head - best to look after it. Make sure you can wear a beanie/woolly hat under your climbing helmet
Cow's Tails
4m of 9mm climbing rope is what you need to make these - get in touch if you want some help or advice with these.
Crampons - C3
12 point mountaineering crampons with anti-balling plates. Ideally these will have a rigid toe and heal bale as opposed to flexible bindings and will be a good fit to your expedition/B3 boots.
Descender
A figure of 8 type descender for abseiling and descending fixed lines.
Down Jacket - Expedition Weight
An expedition weight down jacket for wearing at high altitude and on summit day. Ideally it should be at least 380g of 800+ fill down (or equivalent) and baffle construction with a hood – make sure it is rated down to at least -25 degrees C, the warmer the better!
Down Trousers
A good pair of down trousers with double box wall/baffle construction and at least 150g of 800+ fill power down.
Dry Bags
A selection of rucksack liners and dry bags as required to keep your clothing, sleeping bag and equipment dry and organised.
Duffle Bag
This should be big enough to carry all the clothing and equipment you have with you. It will be carried by a porter, so a soft duffle type bag is best – suitcases are not suitable.
Footwear
Please make sure you have suitable footwear for walking into any climbing venues. For venues close to the road, a pair of trainers, trekking or approach shoes will normally suffice. If the venue is further afield or a mountain crag then a lightweight pair of walking boots or a good approach shoe will be better – please ask in advance if you are not sure.
Gilet
This is an optional item but a good choice as an extra layer to keep your core warm. Any gilet you choose should be low volume (not bulky) down, primaloft or fleece.
Gloves
A lightweight windproof pair of gloves for wearing on a daily basis as required.
Head Torch
With spare batteries or the means to recharge.
High Altitude Socks
Thick socks for wearing above Base Camp in your High Altitude Boots. Take 2 pairs and keep one pair in reserve for summit day. Socks such as Thorlo extreme cold or Smartwool mountaineering extra heavy crew socks are great.
Hiking Socks
We recommend a good pair of proper hiking/trekking socks. A minimum of three pairs but ideally you should have a pair for each day.
HMS Karabiners
These should be locking Karabiners – you will need a minimum of 2.
Ice Axe
This should be a walking axe between 55 and 65 cm long.
Jumar
Can be left-handed or right-handed, the choice is yours – for use on any fixed line we might need to use.
Lightweight Walking Trousers
To wear on a daily basis if not wearing shorts and for evening wear. Jeans or tracksuit bottoms are not suitable.
Liner Gloves
Thin silk/wool/polypropylene liner gloves – 2 pairs.
Liner Socks
2 to 3 pairs. For wearing in your expedition boots.
Long-Sleeved Thermal Top
Essential base layer for colder days and nights. Pack at least 2 of these.
Mid-Layer
Lightweight microfleece or something similar is ideal as a mid-layer. You should bring two mid-layer tops – tops with zips allow ventilation and are often better than round neck tops.
Mittens
Expedition standard modular mittens with a warm fleece lined inner and a durable windproof/waterproof outer shell. Ideally your mittens will also have wrist straps.
Outer Gloves
These should fit over your liner gloves and be fleece lined with a durable windproof/waterproof outer shell. Ideally they will have wrist straps.
Pee Bottle
A 1lt Nalgene bottle works well so long as it is clearly marked as a ‘pee bottle’, saves time and energy by removing the need to leave your tent in the middle of the night. Females may wish to purchase a ‘Shewee’ or similar.
Personal First Aid Kit
This should include suncream, lip balm, blister plasters (compeed), plasters, painkillers and any prescription medicines, insect repellant etc.
Prusik Loop
1.5m of 5 or 6mm accessory cord will suffice for making a prusik loop - please ask for advice if you aren't sure.
Rucksack 30lt
A small rucksack, around 30lt will be ideal.
Rucksack 70lt
70lt+ expedition rucksack for use during the acclimatisation phase for load carrying etc.
Screw Gate Karabiners
A minimum of 2 x screw gate karabiners.
Shorts
These are optional but the weather is often good enough for shorts.
Sleeping Bag - Expedition
This should have a comfort rating of at least -25 (4 or 5 seasons). It is important to get a good night’s sleep and so you need to ensure your sleeping bag will keep you warm.
Sleeping Bag - Liner
Optional silk liner for extra warmth and to help keep your sleeping bag clean.
Sleeping Matt
Good ground insulation is crucial as is a comfy surface to sleep on that softens the hardness of the ground. A full length inflatable sleeping mat is recommended.
Sling 120cm
1 x 120cm sling.
Small Padlocks
As required to provide security for your bags.
Snap Gate Karabiners
A minimum of 2 x snap gate karabiners.
Snow Goggles
For protecting your eyes on glaciers and/or travelling in snowy winter conditions.
Soft Shell Trousers
These should be insulated/fleece lined for winter use.
Soft-Shell Jacket
Make sure it is insulated and, importantly, windproof (not all soft-shell jackets are windproof).
Spoon
Essential for eating you dehydrated meals!
Sports Bra
Ladies only, take 2. Should be a technical fabric, avoid cotton.
Sports Sandals/Flip Flops/Crocks
Or something similar for river crossings/around campwhen not wearing your boots/in the tea houses etc.
Sun Hat
To keep the sun off your head!
Sunglasses
For general eye protection, wearing whilst trekking or on glaciers if applicable to your trip – for wearing on glaciers sunglasses need to be Category 4 and be close fitting or have side protection.
Tee-shirt
For wearing on a daily basis whilst trekking. Should be a technical fabric – avoid cotton as it is slow to dry. You will need 2 or 3 of these.
Thermal Long Johns
1 pair, for wear at high altitude an/or whilst sleeping.
Toiletries and Travel Towel
Include wet wipes, hand sanitizer and toilet tissues as well as nappy sacks or dog poo bags (to bag your toilet paper and keep rubbish under control).
Tupperware Box
A Tupperware box with a lid is great for eating from at the high altitude camps - don't forget to pack one!
Underwear
Ideally these will be quick drying and moisture wicking. Take 3 pairs as a minimum.
Water Bottle
At higher altitudes your Camelbak may freeze and so it is a good idea to have a 1 litre Nalgene type bottle. Also great for events like the Cuillin ridge Traverse.
Waterproof Jacket
Hard shell jacket ideally this will be waterproof and breathable (GoreTex or equivalent) and it will have a hood.
Waterproof Trousers
Ideally they should be windproof and breathable (Gore Tex or equivalent) and with full or ¾ length side zips.
Woolly hat
To keep your head warm - Ideally a hat that will cover your ears too and fit under a climbing helmet.
Belay Device
A tube type Belay device is best - Our guide will provide this if required
Camera
Make sure you have spare batteries or the means to re-charge.
Comfortable Clothing
It is important to have some comfortable dry clothing to wear in the minibus when travelling between mountains.
Ear Plugs
To help with sleeping.
Hand/Feet Warmers
Not essential but extremely useful on summit day if the weather is very cold and/or windy. Taped on top of clothing (at the wrist/forearm or boot top) they can make a real difference.
Long Sleeved Shirt
For covering up during the day or wearing in the evening.
Mobile Phone
You may want to use you phone as a camera. On our overseas trips signal is often limited or non-existent so making calls or sending texts may not be possible - see FAQs for trip specific info.
Penknife
Or multitool - useful for kit repairs etc.
Sewing Kit
Optional but useful for running repairs to clothing or equipment.
Small Stainless Steel Flask
Useful for hot drinks during the day/night
Travel clothing
Clothing that you will not wear whilst on the trek. This can be packed in a small bag and left at your accommodation for collection on your return.
Walking poles
Not essential but extremely useful when carrying a load, descending and for any river crossings.
Watch
For keeping track of time
Booking Confirmation
This will be sent to you aproximately 10 days before departure
Insurance Documents
It is crucial that you have comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency medical treatment and rescue apropriate for your trip. You must ensure you take your insurance documents with you and that the 24 hour emergency contact number for your insurance is clearly identifiable.
Passport and Visa
Your passport should have at least 6 months validity beyond your last day of travel. It is worth making a photocopy of your passport and bringing this with you too just in case. See https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for information about Visa requirements. See also our FAQs for Visa information.
Passport Photos
Please bring 4 x Passport Photos which will be required for climbing and trekking permits.
Trekking and mountaineering trips such as this are low carbon in comparison to other forms of travel and activities. That said though, we are working hard to understand exactly what the carbon emissions are for all our products. By the end of 2024 we hope to have measured everything we do and have a good understanding of all the individual carbon footprints. This will then act as a starting point for us to take action to reduce our emissions to as low as reasonably practicable and drive towards net zero.
Can’t see what you are looking for? All our trips can be customised to meet your needs so, if you need bespoke dates, want to add extra days, or modify the itinerary then please just let us know – we will be happy to help.
